On the way from Carcassone to Narbonne, we decided to take an Agite (French Bed and Breakfast) in a 13th century vineyard called Haut-Gleon(
http://www.hautgleon.com/english/navigation.html). We slept in an old barn which was used by the shepherds. You had to climb a steep ladder to the loft to get to the bathroom so needless to say even Jennifer didn't shower very often.. From there we went to see a wonderful old abbey called Fontfroide (cold water fountain). It was one of the richest abbeys in the region which was known for the Cathar uprising. The French like their freedom and in the 12th century some people decided the Church was too oppressive and they decided to rebel. Simon Monfort and the crusaders crushed the movement and the abbeys that were faithful (and spied on their friends) were properly rewarded. Above, some pictures from this well preserved 11th century (founded 1093) abbey. Interestingly it flourished (only affected by the black plague) until 1791 - the French revolution and Napoleon when it was dissolved only to be reinstated by the French post Napoleon defeat by Wellington who brought the church back to France big -time. The power of the church finally vanished in France only in 1901 but it seems like the French took the Church less seriously than the English for most of the last 2000 years.